Be Choosy

There are many small fruits that are available these days for growing in containers: peaches, pears, apples, cherries, and blueberries to name a few. And thanks to their small size, many dwarf-sized fruit trees make great house plants ― such as dwarf lemon, navel orange, lime, fig, and banana. Some varieties will not be cold-hardy in your area, but they can be brought indoors for the winter months.

Size Matters

Dwarf trees can grow to 8’ tall, but most will do well in containers and can be pruned to keep their height under control at 2-5’ tall. Some varieties may be hardy in your area and can be left in their containers outdoors year around, while others will need to be moved indoors for colder weather. (Tropical trees require 55-85°F.) Keep this in mind when choosing a pot and pruning your specimen. Larger pots and trees can get very heavy, and it is a good idea to invest in a platform with casters to help you move them around.

Lighten Up

Container trees require bright, indirect light, and lots of it. Fruit trees require as much as 8-12 hours of sunlight a day. This can often be a problem, especially during the shorter winter days. Luckily full-spectrum grow lights are readily available and easy to use.

Get Dirty

Most plants do well in light, fast-draining soil mix. However, it’s always a good idea to check your trees specific requirements for soil and fertilizer. Some plants, such as blueberries, prefer high-acid foods, while others do fine with basic all-purpose fertilizer. Test the soil by sticking your finger in about an inch to see if it needs water. If it’s dry, water. Otherwise, wait. Humidity is important though, so mist your tree regularly, especially in winter months.

In the video below, our leading horticultural expert Felix talks about how to care for your indoor citrus plant. He also shows how to get your citrus plant to produce more fruit by discussing the process of citrus pollination. Check it out!

Container Basics:

The size of the container should be compatible with the size of the plant. Small plants in big containers put their efforts into root production, stinting foliage and blooms. Large plants full small pots with their roots, leaving little room for a nutritious planting medium. Think Goldilocks and go “just right.”

If your container doesn’t come with holes for drainage, use a drill to create some. For breakable materials like terra cotta, cover the bottom of the pot with tape to avoid cracks.

Fill your container with moist, but not soggy, planting medium. The best mediums are comprised of sand, soil, and light planting material such as sphagnum or coir fibers. Garden soil is not a good choice for container planting, because it’s too heavy and retains too much moisture.

When you’ve got the right container and the right medium, fill the container to 2” below the rim. While filling, break up any clumps of soil, and gently press down the soil to remove all air pockets.

If you’re starting with seedlings or transplants, set them on top of the soil in an arrangement that works for you, then remove the plants from their pots and place them in their spots. Next, fill in the space around each plant up to its crown. If you’re starting with seeds, plant according to the depth and spacing requirements specified on the seed packet, and finish by providing good gentle soaking of water.

Container gardens need frequent watering. Check the moisture level by poking your finger in the soil; it should be moist, but not soggy. If the soil is dry, add water until it runs out the holes in the bottom of the container. In warm areas, you may have to do this twice a day.

Finally, don’t forget to fertilize. Once a week, use compost tea when you water. If that’s too much trouble, use a gentile, all-natural, slow-release fertilizer that won’t cause salt build-up.

This is why we have started a new series here at Gurney’s Blog called “The Minimalist Garden.” Each month, we will discuss ways you can simplify and organize different aspects of your garden! Today’s entry: Vegetable seeds!

If you have a garden space, you can easily get by with a 4’ X 4’ area. No garden? No problem. Just get a half a dozen large pots, about 18-24” across the top, and fill ‘em with potting soil. Vegetables like lots of light, so both garden areas and pots need to be in a sunny spot.

Fresh veggies have lots of advantages. You know where they came from, you know what was put on them, and you will never get anything fresher. Ideally, you’ll want to start them from seed, so that you can be in complete control of your garden edibles. That’s why we’re focusing on vegetable seeds!

So what are you going to grow? Well, that’s up to you, of course. I like to grow lettuce, tomatoes, radishes, and maybe some spinach, but that’s me. Maybe you could try a pepper? Those are always fun to grow.

Okay, so let’s assume lettuce is on your list (since it’s so easy to grow from seed). You can start lettuce as soon as winter’s last frost has passed (now, for most areas). First, moisten the soil. Next, get a small piece of wood, like a ruler. Press the edge into the surface to make a tiny valley. Sprinkle the seeds into your mini-valley ever so gently; try to get them about a half-inch apart. Press the soil back over them so they are about a quarter-inch deep.

Water lightly, and wait a few days for the seedlings to appear. When they are about 2” high, you’re ready for your first garden-fresh salad! You have to thin them out anyway, so might as well enjoy the greens. You’ll want to clip the plant down to about the soil level. About a week later, do it again, removing every other plant.

Lettuce and spinach will re-grow if you cut them about 1-1/2” above the ground, just above the heart of the plant. This method will get you several salads per plant. You can even sow the lettuce and spinach seeds at different times so you can enjoy fresh salad uninterrupted!

The tomato varieties best suited to a small space are the cherry types. They come in all kinds of colors, and they are crazy prolific. Most cherry tomatoes need to be tied to a stake, and they’re very easy to start from seed.

Radishes come in three varieties: the familiar round, red balls; longer French types that look like red baby carrots; and Japanese daikon radishes. The first two pop up and mature with a couple weeks, while daikon takes twice as long. For a constant supply, sow more seed every two weeks, and make sure you thin them out, or they’ll get spindly roots that won’t fill out.

With these few plants, you can legitimately call yourself a vegetable seed gardener! Now go enjoy yourself a fresh and wholesome harvest!

My favorite herb tea is mint, but some varieties are tastier than others. I use the English mint I grow in my backyard, which has a full mint flavor with no off notes. For a good mint tea, pick about a half-cup of leaves, packed, then bruise them on a cutting board. Place in a warmed teapot, add two pints of boiling water, and steep for about five minutes. Strain and serve…then enjoy! Apple mint is delicious, too, as is peppermint.

Use the same method with catnip (yes, catnip!), chamomile flowers, sage, dill (double the amount of leaves), Echinacea, lavender, thyme or rosemary (half the amount of leaves). You can also use an herb to flavor regular tea, especially green tea, for a delightful drink. Earl Grey tea is flavored with bergamot fruit rind to give its distinctive taste.

Lemony herbs, such as lemon verbena, make good teas by themselves or with other herbs. Lemon verbena with mint is a nice combination. If you use St. John’s wort, add about a tablespoon of thyme for a much better taste. With this and other herbal teas, the best sweetener is a good honey, which sweetens without masking the taste of the tea.

Light and temperature

Most plants like bright, indirect light, like an east- or west-facing window. Some plants, especially those that flower or produce fruit, may require more sunlight. Too much direct sunlight can burn a plant, while too little light can lead to “legginess” since they stretch towards the light source. Even if the plant is getting the correct amount of light, it will tend to grow towards the light source. I rotate each of my houseplants every week when I check them for watering. This keeps the plant balanced and looking its best.

If the amount of natural light in your home is limited (and who’s isn’t?), use grow lights. I have found that a full-spectrum grow light is the easiest way to provide more light just where you need it, especially during the short days of winter.

Plants are also affected by temperature, and most do well in temperatures that you will find comfortable (55-85°). Sometimes light needs and temperature needs are in conflict. For instance, a drafty window may be too cold for a particular plant, regardless of the valuable sunlight it provides. Likewise, a plant may get too warm if placed near a radiator or heating vent. And keep in mind that these problem spots will change with the seasons. A vent that blows warm air in the winter may in turn blow cold air during the summer.

Water and humidity

I like to use rainwater or distilled water because it is free of minerals and other chemicals. But if you use tap water, just let it sit for a few days to let the chlorine dissipate. Chemical fertilizers can also add minerals and salts to the soil. Instead, I use an all-natural fertilizer for all of my plants, but you should check the recommendations for the specific variety you are growing. If your plants already have white or crusty deposits on the soil surface or on the pot from mineral buildup, give it a good drenching soak and let the excess water drain completely in a sink or tub.

Overwatering can kill your houseplants as fast as anything. On watering day, I stick my finger into the dirt; if the soil is still moist, I don’t water. I also empty any standing water that collects in the saucers so that the plants don’t have “wet feet”.

Houseplants also like humidity. And in the winter, it can be too dry indoors with the furnace running. Some plants I keep on a tray of pebbles that are kept moist to provide some humidity. But for some of the larger plants and hanging baskets, I mist with a spray bottle.