Hardening off takes two weeks, and entails gradually exposing your tender seedlings to the elements until they can be transplanted and live outside comfortably.

Beginning the Process

Start the hardening-off process two weeks before the seed’s outside planting date, which is dependent on the hardiness of the plant and the last frost date in your area. Once you’ve determine the date, begin by setting your seeds outside for a couple hours during the day in an area that’s shielded form sun and wind. Direct sun is a definite no-no for young seedlings at this stage, because it will burn the tender leaves. Remember to bring your seedlings in at night. Over the following days, you may increase the time your plants go outside, but do so gradually.

Your Seedlings are Almost Ready

After a few days of gradual and protected outside exposure, you can step up your efforts a notch. Leave your plants out longer and put them in sunnier, cooler, and windier spots. Although some evidence suggests that tomatoes respond well to fertilization at this point, generally it’s not a good idea to feed or overwater your plants right now – remember, you’re trying to toughen them up!

Ready, Set, Grow!

After two weeks of increasing exposure, it’s time to plant them for good. Water the ground thoroughly, and dig a hole just a few inches deeper than the pot in which your seedlings are currently residing. Holding your seedling by the stem, place the seedling in the hole and cover it gently with soil. Once the hole is filled, create a depression around the rim of the plant where water can collect. Be sure to water frequently and to fertilize after this final step. If your weather turns nasty, you can protect your seeds with sun shields, wind blocks, or Gurney’s Tunlcover™ Plant Protector cold covers.

Let’s Get Started

Once you’ve found the right seed varieties for you, you’ll need to determine the proper start date. Typically, seeds are started indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost.

Get your seedlings off to a good start by using the right growing medium. A perfect growing mix is very light and holds moisture well. Avoid using potting soil, which becomes too dense after a few waterings and doesn’t allow good air and water circulation. Additionally, regular potting soil can introduce bacteria to a young seed, resulting in its death. If you don’t want to buy a mix, you can create your own by combining 2 parts peat or sphagnum moss with 1 part perlite and 1 part vermiculate. This will not have the nutrients usually included in a commercial mix, however.

Where to Start Your Seeds

The first container for your seeds should be no more than three inches deep and provide good drainage. If you don’t want to buy containers specifically designed for starting seeds, you’ll need to create your own: empty egg cartons, cut-off milk cartons, or deep-sided disposable aluminum pans work fine. Make sure you punch drainage holes in the bottom.

Planting Your Seeds

The general rule of thumb is to plant seeds four times as deep as the seed is wide. Fine seeds, such as petunia seeds, should be sprinkled on top of the medium but not covered. When using individual containers, plant more than one seed in each cell; you’ll need extras since you seldom get 100% germination. If you’re using flats, space seeds a half inch apart only if they’ll be transplanted into a separate pot following germination. If they’re going to stay in the flat until they head outside, space the seed one to two inches apart. Label your seeds, because most seedlings look alike.

Watering Your Seeds

Once they’re planting, you won’t have to worry about feeding your little guys at first. Seeds contain their own food supply packaged neatly within their shells. Make sure you keep them mist, since most seeds absorb water and use it to bust through their shells. Daily checkups are necessary at this point. To water, you can either use a spray bottle, or set up a bottom watering system (this way, seeds can take as much water as they need.) If you choose a bottom watering system, it’s important to avoid letting your pots sit in a pool of water; this can lead to a moldy pot and a dead seed.

Peanut plants perform best in loose, well-drained soil that’s several inches deep. The plant is susceptible to frost, so if you’re growing outdoors, plant after the last expected frost for spring and summer growth. Seeds should be placed 1-2 inches into the soil and approximately 6 inches apart; rows should be kept 3 feet apart. If you’re planning on growing indoors, seeds should be placed in individual pots approximately 3 weeks before the last expected frost. Keep the plants moist throughout the growing season, but do not over-water.

Your peanut plant will be ready for harvest when the leaves begin to turn yellow, usually in late summer or early fall. When the plant is ready to be harvested, pull it out by the root and allow it to dry for 3-4 days. This will naturally alleviate a low level toxin the plant produces while growing so you can enjoy these delicious, versatile legumes.

Be Choosy

There are many small fruits that are available these days for growing in containers: peaches, pears, apples, cherries, and blueberries to name a few. And thanks to their small size, many dwarf-sized fruit trees make great house plants ― such as dwarf lemon, navel orange, lime, fig, and banana. Some varieties will not be cold-hardy in your area, but they can be brought indoors for the winter months.

Size Matters

Dwarf trees can grow to 8’ tall, but most will do well in containers and can be pruned to keep their height under control at 2-5’ tall. Some varieties may be hardy in your area and can be left in their containers outdoors year around, while others will need to be moved indoors for colder weather. (Tropical trees require 55-85°F.) Keep this in mind when choosing a pot and pruning your specimen. Larger pots and trees can get very heavy, and it is a good idea to invest in a platform with casters to help you move them around.

Lighten Up

Container trees require bright, indirect light, and lots of it. Fruit trees require as much as 8-12 hours of sunlight a day. This can often be a problem, especially during the shorter winter days. Luckily full-spectrum grow lights are readily available and easy to use.

Get Dirty

Most plants do well in light, fast-draining soil mix. However, it’s always a good idea to check your trees specific requirements for soil and fertilizer. Some plants, such as blueberries, prefer high-acid foods, while others do fine with basic all-purpose fertilizer. Test the soil by sticking your finger in about an inch to see if it needs water. If it’s dry, water. Otherwise, wait. Humidity is important though, so mist your tree regularly, especially in winter months.

In the video below, our leading horticultural expert Felix talks about how to care for your indoor citrus plant. He also shows how to get your citrus plant to produce more fruit by discussing the process of citrus pollination. Check it out!

Hosted by Felix, our leading horticultural expert, the new videos cover topics ranging from spring pruning to winter clean up! We show you how to prune peach trees, apple trees, bush cherry trees, grape vines, blackberry plants, pear trees, and more!  We talk about container gardening, indoor citrus care tips, and even blueberries.

Below is one of our new videos about How to Prune an Old, Neglected, Out of Control Peach Tree. Make sure you check back often, or bookmark our channel!

Container Basics:

The size of the container should be compatible with the size of the plant. Small plants in big containers put their efforts into root production, stinting foliage and blooms. Large plants full small pots with their roots, leaving little room for a nutritious planting medium. Think Goldilocks and go “just right.”

If your container doesn’t come with holes for drainage, use a drill to create some. For breakable materials like terra cotta, cover the bottom of the pot with tape to avoid cracks.

Fill your container with moist, but not soggy, planting medium. The best mediums are comprised of sand, soil, and light planting material such as sphagnum or coir fibers. Garden soil is not a good choice for container planting, because it’s too heavy and retains too much moisture.

When you’ve got the right container and the right medium, fill the container to 2” below the rim. While filling, break up any clumps of soil, and gently press down the soil to remove all air pockets.

If you’re starting with seedlings or transplants, set them on top of the soil in an arrangement that works for you, then remove the plants from their pots and place them in their spots. Next, fill in the space around each plant up to its crown. If you’re starting with seeds, plant according to the depth and spacing requirements specified on the seed packet, and finish by providing good gentle soaking of water.

Container gardens need frequent watering. Check the moisture level by poking your finger in the soil; it should be moist, but not soggy. If the soil is dry, add water until it runs out the holes in the bottom of the container. In warm areas, you may have to do this twice a day.

Finally, don’t forget to fertilize. Once a week, use compost tea when you water. If that’s too much trouble, use a gentile, all-natural, slow-release fertilizer that won’t cause salt build-up.

This is why we have started a new series here at Gurney’s Blog called “The Minimalist Garden.” Each month, we will discuss ways you can simplify and organize different aspects of your garden! Today’s entry: Vegetable seeds!

If you have a garden space, you can easily get by with a 4’ X 4’ area. No garden? No problem. Just get a half a dozen large pots, about 18-24” across the top, and fill ‘em with potting soil. Vegetables like lots of light, so both garden areas and pots need to be in a sunny spot.

Fresh veggies have lots of advantages. You know where they came from, you know what was put on them, and you will never get anything fresher. Ideally, you’ll want to start them from seed, so that you can be in complete control of your garden edibles. That’s why we’re focusing on vegetable seeds!

So what are you going to grow? Well, that’s up to you, of course. I like to grow lettuce, tomatoes, radishes, and maybe some spinach, but that’s me. Maybe you could try a pepper? Those are always fun to grow.

Okay, so let’s assume lettuce is on your list (since it’s so easy to grow from seed). You can start lettuce as soon as winter’s last frost has passed (now, for most areas). First, moisten the soil. Next, get a small piece of wood, like a ruler. Press the edge into the surface to make a tiny valley. Sprinkle the seeds into your mini-valley ever so gently; try to get them about a half-inch apart. Press the soil back over them so they are about a quarter-inch deep.

Water lightly, and wait a few days for the seedlings to appear. When they are about 2” high, you’re ready for your first garden-fresh salad! You have to thin them out anyway, so might as well enjoy the greens. You’ll want to clip the plant down to about the soil level. About a week later, do it again, removing every other plant.

Lettuce and spinach will re-grow if you cut them about 1-1/2” above the ground, just above the heart of the plant. This method will get you several salads per plant. You can even sow the lettuce and spinach seeds at different times so you can enjoy fresh salad uninterrupted!

The tomato varieties best suited to a small space are the cherry types. They come in all kinds of colors, and they are crazy prolific. Most cherry tomatoes need to be tied to a stake, and they’re very easy to start from seed.

Radishes come in three varieties: the familiar round, red balls; longer French types that look like red baby carrots; and Japanese daikon radishes. The first two pop up and mature with a couple weeks, while daikon takes twice as long. For a constant supply, sow more seed every two weeks, and make sure you thin them out, or they’ll get spindly roots that won’t fill out.

With these few plants, you can legitimately call yourself a vegetable seed gardener! Now go enjoy yourself a fresh and wholesome harvest!

Light and temperature

Most plants like bright, indirect light, like an east- or west-facing window. Some plants, especially those that flower or produce fruit, may require more sunlight. Too much direct sunlight can burn a plant, while too little light can lead to “legginess” since they stretch towards the light source. Even if the plant is getting the correct amount of light, it will tend to grow towards the light source. I rotate each of my houseplants every week when I check them for watering. This keeps the plant balanced and looking its best.

If the amount of natural light in your home is limited (and who’s isn’t?), use grow lights. I have found that a full-spectrum grow light is the easiest way to provide more light just where you need it, especially during the short days of winter.

Plants are also affected by temperature, and most do well in temperatures that you will find comfortable (55-85°). Sometimes light needs and temperature needs are in conflict. For instance, a drafty window may be too cold for a particular plant, regardless of the valuable sunlight it provides. Likewise, a plant may get too warm if placed near a radiator or heating vent. And keep in mind that these problem spots will change with the seasons. A vent that blows warm air in the winter may in turn blow cold air during the summer.

Pots and soil

When I’m planting (or transplanting), I use a pot that is slightly larger than the plant’s root ball. If the pot is too small, the plant will be rootbound, and if too big, it will tend to retain too much water. It’s best to have a drainage hole, but if your pot doesn’t have one, you can add an inch or so of small pebbles at the bottom for drainage.

I especially like to grow dwarf-sized fruit trees. They do well in containers, and are easy to prune to keep their height and shape under control. Some of the trees are native to my area and can remain on the patio even for the winter months. But I bring the tropical fruit tree containers indoors for protection during winter months.

I generally use a plant mix that is made especially for houseplants – then I know it is the right mix for indoors. Be sure to check the individual requirements of your plants though – some may require a specialized mix for best results, especially for those that flower or produce fruit.

Christmas is my favorite holiday. Getting together with family, eating great food, giving and receiving gifts…speaking of which, last year, my mother-in-law gave my wife and I an amaryllis for Christmas. I’ve been familiar with amaryllis in the past, as we’ve sold amaryllis flower bulbs at Gurney’s for a while now, but I’d never got one for myself for some reason. Since receiving one last Christmas, I’ve been in love with amaryllis ever since. It’s an iconic Christmas flower, and since Christmas is my favorite holiday, amaryllis has become one of my favorite flowers!

The striking display of huge red flowers will impress either as a gift or as a centerpiece on your holiday table. Put simply, no other indoor flower compares with amaryllis for beauty and ease of growth.

When you order amaryllis from Gurney’s Seed & Nursery, it will arrive as a dormant bulb. Snap it out of this sleepy condition by placing it in a warm, well-lit area (68-70F). Water the bulb sparingly until it stems and leaves emerge, then gradually increase the amount of water you give it. Six weeks after its arrival, you’ll have blooms!

When the blooms fade, continue regular watering and feeding to maintain the foliage, which will feed the bulb for next year’s bloom. Then, about 16-18 weeks before you want to see blooms (around Labor Day for Christmas bloom), stop watering and let the foliage die back. Six to eight weeks before you want it to bloom, remove the bulb from the soil, cut off the dead foliage, and strip off any loose scales from the bulb. Repot in a clean container with the upper two-thirds of the bulb above the soil.

Repeat steps as provided above to draw the plant out of dormancy; about six weeks later, your amaryllis will reward you with stunning blooms!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from your friends at Gurney’s Seed & Nursery!