Hardening off takes two weeks, and entails gradually exposing your tender seedlings to the elements until they can be transplanted and live outside comfortably.

Beginning the Process

Start the hardening-off process two weeks before the seed’s outside planting date, which is dependent on the hardiness of the plant and the last frost date in your area. Once you’ve determine the date, begin by setting your seeds outside for a couple hours during the day in an area that’s shielded form sun and wind. Direct sun is a definite no-no for young seedlings at this stage, because it will burn the tender leaves. Remember to bring your seedlings in at night. Over the following days, you may increase the time your plants go outside, but do so gradually.

Your Seedlings are Almost Ready

After a few days of gradual and protected outside exposure, you can step up your efforts a notch. Leave your plants out longer and put them in sunnier, cooler, and windier spots. Although some evidence suggests that tomatoes respond well to fertilization at this point, generally it’s not a good idea to feed or overwater your plants right now – remember, you’re trying to toughen them up!

Ready, Set, Grow!

After two weeks of increasing exposure, it’s time to plant them for good. Water the ground thoroughly, and dig a hole just a few inches deeper than the pot in which your seedlings are currently residing. Holding your seedling by the stem, place the seedling in the hole and cover it gently with soil. Once the hole is filled, create a depression around the rim of the plant where water can collect. Be sure to water frequently and to fertilize after this final step. If your weather turns nasty, you can protect your seeds with sun shields, wind blocks, or Gurney’s Tunlcover™ Plant Protector cold covers.

I love the fall season. Some gardeners give up after September, because they think there’s nothing left to do. It is true that with the cooler weather and holidays upon us, there may not be much time left to enjoy your garden before winter.

But, don’t fret, fellow gardener: There is still time to do some bulb planting! In fact, most flower bulbs have to be planted in the fall, because they need a dormancy period time to become rooted before they can bloom big and boldly in the spring. Planting bulbs is very simple, and the great thing about ordering from Gurney’s catalog or website is that we ship our plants and bulbs to you at exactly the right planting time for your region and zone.

Planting Bulbs

Bulbs are usually planted before the first hard frost. In colder northern climates, this will usually be October or early November; in warmer climates, December may be the best month. If Mother Nature isn’t providing your area with cool temperatures, you can do so yourself by prepping your bulbs in the refrigerator for 6-8 weeks. (See our shipping map)

When the time comes, plant your bulbs with the pointy end facing skyward at a depth that is twice as deep as the bulb is tall. When you’re planting just a few bulbs, the easiest way is to dig a series of holes, each hole large enough to accommodate four or five bulbs. If you’re planting en masse, you can either dig a trench (for a nice, long swath of blooms), or get a special gardening awl attachment for your power drill to dig each hole individually.

Bulb needs

After filling the holes, lay 2-3” of mulch (compost, straw or leaves). Mulch is especially helpful in cold or dry climates because it insulates the soil and maintains even soil moisture. Additionally, mulch inhibits weed growth and prevents soil from splashing onto flowers and foliage during watering or periods of rain.

Typically, bulbs do well in areas with partial to full sun. Soils should be well aerated and well drained, slightly acidic (pH 6-7), and cultivated to a depth of about 8-12”. I recommend adding decomposed organic material, as this will improve moisture retention.

During their growing or blooming seasons, give your bulbs a deep watering when natural rainfall is less than 1” per week. Most bulbs benefit from a fertilizer such as bonemeal.

And there you have it! For ease of planting and show stopping color, nothing beats flower bulbs. Click here to see Gurney’s huge selection of flower bulbs!

Hosted by Felix, our leading horticultural expert, the new videos cover a wide range of helpful topics, including fruit thinning, pruning, fruit production, planting and care tips, and new exclusive product announcements.

Below is one of our new videos! Felix shares how to thin fruit on an a mature apple tree. Fruit thinning is the process of removing extra fruit from tree branches to benefit the tree’s health and vigor. Make sure you check back often for more videos, or bookmark our channel!

This is why we have started a new series here at Gurney’s Blog called “The Minimalist Garden.” Each month, we will discuss ways you can simplify and organize different aspects of your garden! Today’s entry: Vegetable seeds!

If you have a garden space, you can easily get by with a 4’ X 4’ area. No garden? No problem. Just get a half a dozen large pots, about 18-24” across the top, and fill ‘em with potting soil. Vegetables like lots of light, so both garden areas and pots need to be in a sunny spot.

Fresh veggies have lots of advantages. You know where they came from, you know what was put on them, and you will never get anything fresher. Ideally, you’ll want to start them from seed, so that you can be in complete control of your garden edibles. That’s why we’re focusing on vegetable seeds!

So what are you going to grow? Well, that’s up to you, of course. I like to grow lettuce, tomatoes, radishes, and maybe some spinach, but that’s me. Maybe you could try a pepper? Those are always fun to grow.

Okay, so let’s assume lettuce is on your list (since it’s so easy to grow from seed). You can start lettuce as soon as winter’s last frost has passed (now, for most areas). First, moisten the soil. Next, get a small piece of wood, like a ruler. Press the edge into the surface to make a tiny valley. Sprinkle the seeds into your mini-valley ever so gently; try to get them about a half-inch apart. Press the soil back over them so they are about a quarter-inch deep.

Water lightly, and wait a few days for the seedlings to appear. When they are about 2” high, you’re ready for your first garden-fresh salad! You have to thin them out anyway, so might as well enjoy the greens. You’ll want to clip the plant down to about the soil level. About a week later, do it again, removing every other plant.

Lettuce and spinach will re-grow if you cut them about 1-1/2” above the ground, just above the heart of the plant. This method will get you several salads per plant. You can even sow the lettuce and spinach seeds at different times so you can enjoy fresh salad uninterrupted!

The tomato varieties best suited to a small space are the cherry types. They come in all kinds of colors, and they are crazy prolific. Most cherry tomatoes need to be tied to a stake, and they’re very easy to start from seed.

Radishes come in three varieties: the familiar round, red balls; longer French types that look like red baby carrots; and Japanese daikon radishes. The first two pop up and mature with a couple weeks, while daikon takes twice as long. For a constant supply, sow more seed every two weeks, and make sure you thin them out, or they’ll get spindly roots that won’t fill out.

With these few plants, you can legitimately call yourself a vegetable seed gardener! Now go enjoy yourself a fresh and wholesome harvest!

Water and humidity

I like to use rainwater or distilled water because it is free of minerals and other chemicals. But if you use tap water, just let it sit for a few days to let the chlorine dissipate. Chemical fertilizers can also add minerals and salts to the soil. Instead, I use an all-natural fertilizer for all of my plants, but you should check the recommendations for the specific variety you are growing. If your plants already have white or crusty deposits on the soil surface or on the pot from mineral buildup, give it a good drenching soak and let the excess water drain completely in a sink or tub.

Overwatering can kill your houseplants as fast as anything. On watering day, I stick my finger into the dirt; if the soil is still moist, I don’t water. I also empty any standing water that collects in the saucers so that the plants don’t have “wet feet”.

Houseplants also like humidity. And in the winter, it can be too dry indoors with the furnace running. Some plants I keep on a tray of pebbles that are kept moist to provide some humidity. But for some of the larger plants and hanging baskets, I mist with a spray bottle.

Seed starting is admittedly more complicated, but that doesn’t mean it’s difficult. It’s actually quite the opposite, especially when you have the right resources and a little ambition! So for those of you who are hesitant to try seed starting, fear not! There is a way to make seed starting simple, quick and fun. And contrary to popular belief, you don’t need an elaborate basement operation with fluorescent lights and elegant light fixtures!

I’m really excited about Gurney’s new Seed Starting Kit. We’ve assembled the absolute best way to start seeds. You’ll get healthy and hearty plants every time! The best part is it’s clean…no fussing with messy potting soil or Dixie cups.

Our Seed Starting Kit allows you to quickly, easily and successfully start all kinds of seeds. Each kit contains everything you need for fast germination and vital root growth. The soil-less grow plugs are made of natural, biodegradable materials so that each plug can be directly transplanted into the garden greatly reducing transplant shock. Each grow plug contains beneficial bacteria to aid in maximum seed germination.

The lightweight 55-cell growing tray wraps each grow plug in warmth and floats them in the water-filled reservoir tray, allowing each seed to get the perfect water-to-air ratio. The humidity dome holds in the warmth and moisture, ensuring early and uniform seed germination

I recently had the opportunity to give the Seed Starting Kit a try, and let me tell you, it works! This is by far the easiest method I have ever used. It allows me to do more – and easily. Give it a try today!

I love the fall season. Some gardeners give up after September, because they think there’s nothing left to do. It is true that with the cooler weather and holidays upon us, there may not be much time left to enjoy your garden before winter.

But, don’t fret, fellow gardener: There is still time to do some bulb planting! In fact, most flower bulbs have to be planted in the fall, because they need a dormancy period time to become rooted before they can bloom big and boldly in the spring. Planting bulbs is very simple, and the great thing about ordering from Gurney’s catalog or website is that we ship our plants and bulbs to you at exactly the right planting time for your region and zone.

Stargazer Lily from Gurney's Seed & Nursery

Planting Bulbs

Bulbs are usually planted before the first hard frost. In colder northern climates, this will usually be October or early November; in warmer climates, December may be the best month. If Mother Nature isn’t providing your area with cool temperatures, you can do so yourself by prepping your bulbs in the refrigerator for 6-8 weeks. (See our shipping map)

When the time comes, plant your bulbs with the pointy end facing skyward at a depth that is twice as deep as the bulb is tall. When you’re planting just a few bulbs, the easiest way is to dig a series of holes, each hole large enough to accommodate four or five bulbs. If you’re planting en masse, you can either dig a trench (for a nice, long swath of blooms), or get a special gardening awl attachment for your power drill to dig each hole individually.

Bulb needs

After filling the holes, lay 2-3” of mulch (compost, straw or leaves). Mulch is especially helpful in cold or dry climates because it insulates the soil and maintains even soil moisture. Additionally, mulch inhibits weed growth and prevents soil from splashing onto flowers and foliage during watering or periods of rain.

Typically, bulbs do well in areas with partial to full sun. Soils should be well aerated and well drained, slightly acidic (pH 6-7), and cultivated to a depth of about 8-12”. I recommend adding decomposed organic material, as this will improve moisture retention.

During their growing or blooming seasons, give your bulbs a deep watering when natural rainfall is less than 1” per week. Most bulbs benefit from a fertilizer such as bonemeal.

And there you have it! For ease of planting and show stopping color, nothing beats flower bulbs. Click here to see Gurney’s huge selection of flower bulbs!

Personally, I like to start thinking about my plans for next year’s garden. I clean my gardening equipment before storing, check my stored produce (like winter squash) and remove any that is damaged or rotten, and I may even start building new garden structures for the upcoming growing season.

And don’t forget that November is perfect for pruning! I use branches and other pruning remnants to hold down mulch for the upcoming winter. Of course, soon you’ll want to cover flowers to protect from early cold snaps.

If you’re like me, you love the birds that late autumn and winter bring. In these months, I stock up on birdseed, and continuously check my birdbath to make sure it has fresh water for those over-wintering birds.

If you have any good fall gardening tips, please share it with everyone by leaving a comment below!