When foods are properly dried, they can’t support the growth of spoilage organisms like bacteria, yeast and molds. Well-dried vegetables have almost 90% of their water removed, creating an environment hostile to these spoilage organisms.

To Dry:

The best tomatoes to use for drying are meaty types such as paste tomatoes. Slice tomatoes into halves or thirds if large. If drying outdoors, place skin side down on a screen or tray in an enclosed screen house to keep insects and dirt off the produce. Outdoor drying will take a few days during warm breezy and dry weather. Bring tomatoes in at night to protect from dew. Hot but humid weather is not conducive to drying and it’s recommended to use an alternative method if the humidity is high. If using a commercial food dryer, follow those specific directions that are given with the unit. If using the oven, use the lowest setting possible to maintain a temperature below 65C (124F). Drying in an oven can take as little time as overnight. If the temperature cannot remain below 65C (145F), you should consider the other techniques mentioned for drying. Well dried tomatoes should be leathery but pliable. Store in glass or plastic jars with tight lids. At room temperatures of 20C (70F), tomatoes should store up to 3 months; at cooler temperatures, they can store for as long as 6-9 months.

To Use:

Pour an equal mix of vinegar and boiling water, or just boiling water, over the tomatoes and let stand from a few minutes to a half an hour until they are soft and chewy. Drain off water and cover with olive oil and garlic. Let them marinate in the refrigerator or room temperature for several hours prior to use. They’ll keep in the oil for about a month. Their concentrated flavor is delicious with pasta or antipasto.

How to Plant Strawberries:

Strawberries prosper when planted in properly prepared beds or rows alongside of the house; planting them to work as an edge to a walk or driveway or encouraging them to sprawl over the top of the wall. Strawberries are even happy to grow in strawberry jars and hanging baskets.

The best way to grow strawberries is with slightly acidic potting soil that has a pH between 5.5 and 6.8. You can mix 4 inches or more of compost in a clay type soil to create raised mounds in order to improve drainage. In sandy type of soil, mix a layer of rich compost or manure only after removing weeds.

The plant should be spaced in rows 18 inches apart. The soil should cover the roots very well but the central growing bud (crown) should be exposed to light and fresh air; otherwise if buried, the plant could easily rot. Keeping strawberries from coming in contact with the soil has the added bonus of more space for airflow. This way they ripen more evenly. In warm, sunny weather, the strawberries ripen in 30 days after blossoms are fertilized.

An absolute necessity for strawberries to grow well is at least 8 hours of sunshine everyday. Make sure to protect your strawberry fruits from birds by covering them with lightweight bird nettings. Small strawberry fruits are the result of hot and drought weather conditions. Regular watering and improving climate will help your plant to start yielding normal size fruits. Improper pollination could be the reason for deformation in shape and size of strawberry fruits.

Now that spring is quickly approaching, order some Whopper Junebearing Strawberries from Gurney’s!

Hardening off takes two weeks, and entails gradually exposing your tender seedlings to the elements until they can be transplanted and live outside comfortably.

Beginning the Process

Start the hardening-off process two weeks before the seed’s outside planting date, which is dependent on the hardiness of the plant and the last frost date in your area. Once you’ve determine the date, begin by setting your seeds outside for a couple hours during the day in an area that’s shielded form sun and wind. Direct sun is a definite no-no for young seedlings at this stage, because it will burn the tender leaves. Remember to bring your seedlings in at night. Over the following days, you may increase the time your plants go outside, but do so gradually.

Your Seedlings are Almost Ready

After a few days of gradual and protected outside exposure, you can step up your efforts a notch. Leave your plants out longer and put them in sunnier, cooler, and windier spots. Although some evidence suggests that tomatoes respond well to fertilization at this point, generally it’s not a good idea to feed or overwater your plants right now – remember, you’re trying to toughen them up!

Ready, Set, Grow!

After two weeks of increasing exposure, it’s time to plant them for good. Water the ground thoroughly, and dig a hole just a few inches deeper than the pot in which your seedlings are currently residing. Holding your seedling by the stem, place the seedling in the hole and cover it gently with soil. Once the hole is filled, create a depression around the rim of the plant where water can collect. Be sure to water frequently and to fertilize after this final step. If your weather turns nasty, you can protect your seeds with sun shields, wind blocks, or Gurney’s Tunlcover™ Plant Protector cold covers.

This is why we have started a new series here at Gurney’s Blog called “The Minimalist Garden.” Each month, we will discuss ways you can simplify and organize different aspects of your garden! Today’s entry: Vegetable seeds!

If you have a garden space, you can easily get by with a 4’ X 4’ area. No garden? No problem. Just get a half a dozen large pots, about 18-24” across the top, and fill ‘em with potting soil. Vegetables like lots of light, so both garden areas and pots need to be in a sunny spot.

Fresh veggies have lots of advantages. You know where they came from, you know what was put on them, and you will never get anything fresher. Ideally, you’ll want to start them from seed, so that you can be in complete control of your garden edibles. That’s why we’re focusing on vegetable seeds!

So what are you going to grow? Well, that’s up to you, of course. I like to grow lettuce, tomatoes, radishes, and maybe some spinach, but that’s me. Maybe you could try a pepper? Those are always fun to grow.

Okay, so let’s assume lettuce is on your list (since it’s so easy to grow from seed). You can start lettuce as soon as winter’s last frost has passed (now, for most areas). First, moisten the soil. Next, get a small piece of wood, like a ruler. Press the edge into the surface to make a tiny valley. Sprinkle the seeds into your mini-valley ever so gently; try to get them about a half-inch apart. Press the soil back over them so they are about a quarter-inch deep.

Water lightly, and wait a few days for the seedlings to appear. When they are about 2” high, you’re ready for your first garden-fresh salad! You have to thin them out anyway, so might as well enjoy the greens. You’ll want to clip the plant down to about the soil level. About a week later, do it again, removing every other plant.

Lettuce and spinach will re-grow if you cut them about 1-1/2” above the ground, just above the heart of the plant. This method will get you several salads per plant. You can even sow the lettuce and spinach seeds at different times so you can enjoy fresh salad uninterrupted!

The tomato varieties best suited to a small space are the cherry types. They come in all kinds of colors, and they are crazy prolific. Most cherry tomatoes need to be tied to a stake, and they’re very easy to start from seed.

Radishes come in three varieties: the familiar round, red balls; longer French types that look like red baby carrots; and Japanese daikon radishes. The first two pop up and mature with a couple weeks, while daikon takes twice as long. For a constant supply, sow more seed every two weeks, and make sure you thin them out, or they’ll get spindly roots that won’t fill out.

With these few plants, you can legitimately call yourself a vegetable seed gardener! Now go enjoy yourself a fresh and wholesome harvest!

Last summer, I had the chance to grow some new tomato varieties. I officially have a new favorite tomato: Nonna’s Prize (VFF). It’s a new Gurney’s Choice tomato seed variety that we are introducing in our spring 2010 (request your copy of our new catalog here!).

Take my word for it; this is the richest-flavored tomato you will ever grow! It resembles an heirloom tomato in looks, but grows like hybrid, which is something I’ve personally always looked for in a tomato seed.

I think what I like most about this new tomato variety, aside from the taste, is the color and shape. It has the distinct, ribbed teardrop shape of a traditional Italian heirloom type, but it yields as well as our finest hybrids. It has a meaty texture and a tangy flavor, which is simply perfect for sauces and fresh eating. And did I mention they are highly disease resistant, and won’t crack or scar like many heirlooms? Simply put, if you love growing tomatoes like me, you’ll love growing Nonna’s Prize!

It’s a one-stop-shop for all your vegetable and flower seed needs! Check it out by clicking on the picture below:

Personally, I like to start thinking about my plans for next year’s garden. I clean my gardening equipment before storing, check my stored produce (like winter squash) and remove any that is damaged or rotten, and I may even start building new garden structures for the upcoming growing season.

And don’t forget that November is perfect for pruning! I use branches and other pruning remnants to hold down mulch for the upcoming winter. Of course, soon you’ll want to cover flowers to protect from early cold snaps.

If you’re like me, you love the birds that late autumn and winter bring. In these months, I stock up on birdseed, and continuously check my birdbath to make sure it has fresh water for those over-wintering birds.

If you have any good fall gardening tips, please share it with everyone by leaving a comment below!

Click this link to head over there now to check it out and save $25.00 when you order products totaling $50 or more! Let us know what you think in the comments below. Gardening tips and great deals are on the way, so check back here soon!