When foods are properly dried, they can’t support the growth of spoilage organisms like bacteria, yeast and molds. Well-dried vegetables have almost 90% of their water removed, creating an environment hostile to these spoilage organisms.

To Dry:

The best tomatoes to use for drying are meaty types such as paste tomatoes. Slice tomatoes into halves or thirds if large. If drying outdoors, place skin side down on a screen or tray in an enclosed screen house to keep insects and dirt off the produce. Outdoor drying will take a few days during warm breezy and dry weather. Bring tomatoes in at night to protect from dew. Hot but humid weather is not conducive to drying and it’s recommended to use an alternative method if the humidity is high. If using a commercial food dryer, follow those specific directions that are given with the unit. If using the oven, use the lowest setting possible to maintain a temperature below 65C (124F). Drying in an oven can take as little time as overnight. If the temperature cannot remain below 65C (145F), you should consider the other techniques mentioned for drying. Well dried tomatoes should be leathery but pliable. Store in glass or plastic jars with tight lids. At room temperatures of 20C (70F), tomatoes should store up to 3 months; at cooler temperatures, they can store for as long as 6-9 months.

To Use:

Pour an equal mix of vinegar and boiling water, or just boiling water, over the tomatoes and let stand from a few minutes to a half an hour until they are soft and chewy. Drain off water and cover with olive oil and garlic. Let them marinate in the refrigerator or room temperature for several hours prior to use. They’ll keep in the oil for about a month. Their concentrated flavor is delicious with pasta or antipasto.

These special trees make it easy to grow fresh, delicious apples right in your own backyard, no matter the size of your growing space. The trees grow approximately six feet tall, and bear full-size, full-flavored fruit only 16 months after planting. By their third or fourth year, these easy-to-manage trees will bear half a bushel or more.

Many commercial growers now plant this type of tree because it offers more production per acre. No ladder needed to prune, spray or harvest, and no special care beyond what you’d give ordinary apples.

If you have limited space, or simply want a little tree with big benefits, Li’l BIG™ apple trees are for you. Their height makes pruning, spraying and harvesting easier than standard-size fruit trees.

Li’l BIG™ apple trees are grown on specific root stock that makes them resistant to fire blight, a devastating disease of fruit trees. With no threat of disease, the sweet, crisp, juicy flavor of our Pixie Crunch™ apple, or the exciting, pineapple-sweet lemon hybrid flavor of our Sundance™ apple, can make its way into pies and baked goods harvest after harvest.

Deluxe Fruit Apple Trees

Your money can’t buy a better fruit tree than Gurney’s deluxe-grade fruit trees. It’s perfect for any gardener, beginner or veteran. It is a perfect size, prepuned and marked for the proper planting depth—can’t get any easier or more convenient than that.

Every deluxe fruit apple tree, from the sweet, tangy, self-pollinating Golden Delicious to the mildly-tart, world-favorite McIntosh, comes with two oz. of Quik-Cal™ Pelletized Calcium to enhance fruit quality; one 12 oz. bag of Fruit Tree Starter Formula to meet the needs of young trees; one premium Tree Guard to protect the trunk from gnawing pests, mowers and weed trimmers; and Backyard Horticulture for Fun and Profit—How to Make $10,000 in Your Spare Time, our new booklet that describes everything you need to know to make money straight from your backyard.

Roll Up Your Sleeves!

It’s finally time to start growing again, and time to wake up those sleeping garden plots. Here are just a few suggestions to get you started:

• Do a maintenance check on the compost pile. Turn it, move it, use it!
• Remove protective coverings from roses and tender shrubs.
• Prepare your perennial beds by raking and mulching.
• Rake any leaves that may have been missed once snow fell. Add to the compost pile.
• Treat your lawn mower right by greasing it up, filling the gas tank, checking the spark plugs and sharpening the blades.
• Flush out your pipe lines by running your outside faucet. Inspect your garden hose for cracks and leaks and, if necessary, replace it.
• Check your rain spouts for leaves and debris that may clog in the summer. Clean out and add to the compost pile.
• If you put your lawn ornaments away for the winter, introduce them back to your landscape.
• Give your lawn furniture a good spraying with the hose to remove dirt and dust that has built up. Set it out in the sun to dry. If possible, launder seat cushions and covers.

Get Ready, Set, Grow!

After all that cleanup, now you’ve got to put something in the soil. It’s a great time to get started on your vegetable garden. Start some early crops, like lettuce and spinach, in a cold frame. Plants that take a long time to get to maturity, like mammoth pumpkins, should be started in peat pots. Prepare to plant other crops as the ground begins to warm and the danger of frost has passed.

How to Plant Strawberries:

Strawberries prosper when planted in properly prepared beds or rows alongside of the house; planting them to work as an edge to a walk or driveway or encouraging them to sprawl over the top of the wall. Strawberries are even happy to grow in strawberry jars and hanging baskets.

The best way to grow strawberries is with slightly acidic potting soil that has a pH between 5.5 and 6.8. You can mix 4 inches or more of compost in a clay type soil to create raised mounds in order to improve drainage. In sandy type of soil, mix a layer of rich compost or manure only after removing weeds.

The plant should be spaced in rows 18 inches apart. The soil should cover the roots very well but the central growing bud (crown) should be exposed to light and fresh air; otherwise if buried, the plant could easily rot. Keeping strawberries from coming in contact with the soil has the added bonus of more space for airflow. This way they ripen more evenly. In warm, sunny weather, the strawberries ripen in 30 days after blossoms are fertilized.

An absolute necessity for strawberries to grow well is at least 8 hours of sunshine everyday. Make sure to protect your strawberry fruits from birds by covering them with lightweight bird nettings. Small strawberry fruits are the result of hot and drought weather conditions. Regular watering and improving climate will help your plant to start yielding normal size fruits. Improper pollination could be the reason for deformation in shape and size of strawberry fruits.

Now that spring is quickly approaching, order some Whopper Junebearing Strawberries from Gurney’s!

Hardening off takes two weeks, and entails gradually exposing your tender seedlings to the elements until they can be transplanted and live outside comfortably.

Beginning the Process

Start the hardening-off process two weeks before the seed’s outside planting date, which is dependent on the hardiness of the plant and the last frost date in your area. Once you’ve determine the date, begin by setting your seeds outside for a couple hours during the day in an area that’s shielded form sun and wind. Direct sun is a definite no-no for young seedlings at this stage, because it will burn the tender leaves. Remember to bring your seedlings in at night. Over the following days, you may increase the time your plants go outside, but do so gradually.

Your Seedlings are Almost Ready

After a few days of gradual and protected outside exposure, you can step up your efforts a notch. Leave your plants out longer and put them in sunnier, cooler, and windier spots. Although some evidence suggests that tomatoes respond well to fertilization at this point, generally it’s not a good idea to feed or overwater your plants right now – remember, you’re trying to toughen them up!

Ready, Set, Grow!

After two weeks of increasing exposure, it’s time to plant them for good. Water the ground thoroughly, and dig a hole just a few inches deeper than the pot in which your seedlings are currently residing. Holding your seedling by the stem, place the seedling in the hole and cover it gently with soil. Once the hole is filled, create a depression around the rim of the plant where water can collect. Be sure to water frequently and to fertilize after this final step. If your weather turns nasty, you can protect your seeds with sun shields, wind blocks, or Gurney’s Tunlcover™ Plant Protector cold covers.

If you’ve never liked spinach, chances are you haven’t eaten it fresh from the garden. Garden-grown spinach is mild, tender and totally delicious! Use it in salads or steam lightly just to wilt. Either way, spinach supplies you with plenty of vision-enhancing vitamin A. Cooked or raw, the dark green leaves of spinach are a super source of vitamins, minerals and cancer-fighting compounds; a healthful addition to any of your favorite recipes. Plus, spinach is one of the most nutrient-dense, low-calorie foods you can grow!

Perennial vegetables are few and far between, so when you find one that looks good in your garden, tastes great on your plate and is one of the healthiest foods you can eat, you’ve found yourself a must-have crop. And you don’t have to look any further than asparagus! It’s one of the healthiest vegetables you can have in your diet because it’s rich in antioxidants and nutrients. The health benefits of asparagus are plenty. It contains properties that: protect against cancer, heart disease, aging, inflammation, fungi, viruses, birth defects, osteoporosis, arthritis, hair loss and depression; detoxify the body; and act as an aphrodisiac. There are tons of great asparagus recipes out there, but it may just be best on its own with a little butter melted over top of it.

With homegrown veggies this good, you might even be able to convince your own children or grandchildren to give them a try!

Let’s Get Started

Once you’ve found the right seed varieties for you, you’ll need to determine the proper start date. Typically, seeds are started indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost.

Get your seedlings off to a good start by using the right growing medium. A perfect growing mix is very light and holds moisture well. Avoid using potting soil, which becomes too dense after a few waterings and doesn’t allow good air and water circulation. Additionally, regular potting soil can introduce bacteria to a young seed, resulting in its death. If you don’t want to buy a mix, you can create your own by combining 2 parts peat or sphagnum moss with 1 part perlite and 1 part vermiculate. This will not have the nutrients usually included in a commercial mix, however.

Where to Start Your Seeds

The first container for your seeds should be no more than three inches deep and provide good drainage. If you don’t want to buy containers specifically designed for starting seeds, you’ll need to create your own: empty egg cartons, cut-off milk cartons, or deep-sided disposable aluminum pans work fine. Make sure you punch drainage holes in the bottom.

Planting Your Seeds

The general rule of thumb is to plant seeds four times as deep as the seed is wide. Fine seeds, such as petunia seeds, should be sprinkled on top of the medium but not covered. When using individual containers, plant more than one seed in each cell; you’ll need extras since you seldom get 100% germination. If you’re using flats, space seeds a half inch apart only if they’ll be transplanted into a separate pot following germination. If they’re going to stay in the flat until they head outside, space the seed one to two inches apart. Label your seeds, because most seedlings look alike.

Watering Your Seeds

Once they’re planting, you won’t have to worry about feeding your little guys at first. Seeds contain their own food supply packaged neatly within their shells. Make sure you keep them mist, since most seeds absorb water and use it to bust through their shells. Daily checkups are necessary at this point. To water, you can either use a spray bottle, or set up a bottom watering system (this way, seeds can take as much water as they need.) If you choose a bottom watering system, it’s important to avoid letting your pots sit in a pool of water; this can lead to a moldy pot and a dead seed.